Mandarin dresses
used to include all of Chinese woman's attire, which was
also called Chinese dresses or Oriental dresses.
Nowadays one-piece Mandarin dresses are more popular
than two-piece sets, so Mandarin dresses just refers to
those in one piece. They are also known as qipao, a
phonetic translation from the official Chinese language
Mandarin, or cheongsam, a phonetic translation from a
Chinese dialect called Cantonese. Since Mandarin dresses
are closely fitting, they are often nicely described as
“the second skin.”
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Mandarin dresses originated
as standard garments for women from Manchuria, today's
northeastern China. After the establishment of the
Republic of China, mainstream Chinese women put on
Mandarin dresses as well. Mandarin dresses became more
and more modernized through the years. However, they
usually still have a stand-up collar, a diagonal placket
going to the right, a fitted waistline, and side slits.
Their length can be above or below the knees. Their
sleeves can be long or short.
To make a Mandarin dress, the most delicate work is
trimming. Initially, in the early years of the Qing
Dynasty, Mandarin dresses came with thin trims in
neutral colors. Later, during the last years of the Qing
Dynasty, the trims became wider and wider, with more and
more folds of binding, too. They could be triple binding
or quintuple binding. Some even came with 18 folds of
binding! There could be all kinds of beading on the
dresses as well. The trims might have cutouts filled
with embroidered patches. Those dresses were too
elaborately created for onlookers to tell what fabric
they were made of; in the meantime, the women were also
wearing four-or-five-inch platforms. The platforms were
wider on top and round at the bottom, shaped like a
flower pot, so they were called “flowerpot bottoms.”
Because they left footprints like horses' hoofs did,
they were also called “horses' hoof bottoms.”
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Modern Mandarin dresses
keep some elements of traditional Mandarin dresses, but
adjustments have been made for them to be easier to
wear. These dresses are supposed to be made of high-end
fabrics, custom tailored, finely trimmed, with ornate
buttons. They can flatter the wearer's figure and
accentuate her poise. That's why many international
fashion designers say Mandarin dresses represent the
collective aesthetics of Chinese fashion design and
crystallize the wisdom of Chinese culture. When a woman
wears an elegant Mandarin dress for a dinner party or
other special occasions, she looks particularly
attractive. The beauty of the Mandarin dress shows the
wearer's respect for the party host as well as her
preference for ethnic attire, setting her apart from
ordinary women.
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Mandarin dresses captivate
not only Chinese people but the rest of the world.
During traditional Chinese holidays, many Chinese women
put on Mandarin dresses no matter where they are. They
may wear Mandarin dresses for company holiday parties as
well. Some foreign-born Chinese and even non-Chinese
women like Mandarin dresses, too. They may choose more
casual-looking Mandarin dresses for their daily wear.
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